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Frequently Asked Questions Included Below
Contact AstroBackyard
Our goal is to share helpful astrophotography information and resources. We do this through our website and YouTube channel, sharing beginner information with as many people as possible.
As a team of only two people, we don’t have the resources to provide custom email responses (especially those requesting gear-specific advice).
While you may not receive a response to your email, please know we use your questions to update old content and/or to create new content.
Be sure to send equipment/gear support inquiries to the manufacturer so that they can properly troubleshoot your issue.
Frequently asked questions have been included below for your information.
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info@astrobackyard.com
Address
110 James St. Suite 200
St. Catharines, Ontario L2R 7E8
Popular Questions
Here are the answers to some of our most frequently asked questions.
There are many different types of astrophotography, from wide-angle Milky Way photography to deep-sky photography through a telescope. The basic elements of this hobby include the understanding of long-exposure images, focus, and image processing.
It is wise to choose your subject matter based on the camera equipment you currently own. Setting your expectations for what’s possible with your personal gear will help you stay motivated and learn what’s needed to take the next step.
Here are some resources for understanding more about beginner astrophotography, building a deep-sky astrophotography kit, and how to set up for a night of imaging.
If you are brand new to astrophotography, you can’t go wrong investing in an entry-level DSLR/mirrorless camera. They are easy to use, affordable, and still a very relevant choice for long-exposure deep-sky astrophotography. They also allow you to review your images and make adjustments to your settings on the fly.
Though a dedicated astronomy camera will provide better signal, they lack a display screen and camera controls on the body of the camera and must be controlled using dedicated software on your computer, which can be a lot for a beginner to learn early on.
Overall, it comes down to the user experience you’d like to have (i.e. a DSLR and intervalometer vs dedicated astronomy camera and software), while also keeping in mind that the brand you choose can have an impact on your future equipment options.
When you hear the term “modified DSLR” in astrophotography, it means that the stock IR cut (i.e. infrared cutting) filter has been removed to allow the red color (i.e. the hydrogen-alpha or Hα) from certain nebulae to be recorded.
Cameras without the IR cut filter are up to 4X more sensitive to the h-alpha wavelength of the visible spectrum (656.3 nm). This means having a camera that is sensitive to the Hα wavelength can make a big difference when it comes to certain emission nebulae, but it is not necessary to still capture great images.
You could modify your DSLR for astrophotography using online tutorials, but unless you’re comfortable dissembling your camera, that task is better left to the professionals.
An apochromatic refractor telescope (i.e. a triplet) and a high quality telephoto/prime camera lens do share a lot of similarities, including focal length, aperture and f-ratio.
The main difference is that a camera lens design is more complex, utilising extra features like autofocus to focus on objects. Whereas, a triplet (3 element design) telescope was meant to capture images of space with a flat field and without chromatic aberration.
You can capture great astro images with camera lenses if you already have some in your collection. But there is a noticeable difference when using a refractor telescope, particularly when focusing, using thread on filters, and in the overall lens design when put into practice.
Light pollution is the presence of unwanted and poorly implemented outdoor lighting at night.
Though imaging under a light-polluted sky will not produce the same quality data as a dark sky, there are still plenty of great projects you can take on.
You can use filters to ignore a lot of the light pollution around us. There are many great options available now, including multi-bandpass narrowband filters, that isolate certain gases within nebulae.
Shooting without a filter from a light-polluted backyard is challenging, but it can be done. In fact, I prefer to capture certain targets this way, and to deal with the light pollution during the image processing stages.
If you’re looking to buy your first telescope, it is recommended that you have a clear vision of what you want to use it for (i.e. visual, photography, planetary, deep-sky, etc.), your available budget, and the level of complexity you want to take on.
There are many different characteristics that come into play when choosing a telescope, but the two most important factors will be your desired focal length (magnification) and aperture (how bright the object will appear).
I typically recommend beginners start with a Dobsonian telescope to nurture their curiosity in the hobby and provide a positive user experience before jumping into deep-sky astrophotography. But a camera lens or a small refractor telescope will also be great starting points for a beginner.
Your telescope mount is the cornerstone of your entire setup, so investing in a high-quality tracking platform is critical. If your goal is to take deep sky astrophotography images, you’ll want to invest in an equatorial telescope mount.
It’s important to consider the maximum payload capacity, the overall mount weight, and the ease of setup, which will all impact your imaging experience.
- A star tracker is a portable tracking mount designed for astrophotography, commonly used with a DSLR/Mirrorless camera and lens combination, or a small telescope.
- Strain wave mounts (like the ZWO AM5) are unique in that they can operate without counterweights, while still supporting moderately sized telescopes. Their small package makes them easier to set up and extremely portable.
- Observatory grade mounts, or larger equatorial mounts are high-end, sophisticated pieces of equipment designed for precise tracking with a payload capacity over 70 lbs. This means you can pretty much attach any telescope you want.
Astrophotography with a camera lens is a lot of fun, and can often be a simpler and more enjoyable experience than with a telescope.
Wide-angle lenses (such as the Rokinon 14mm F/2.8) make it possible to capture entire regions of the Milky Way at once. Full frame telephoto lenses (such as the Rokinon 135mm F2) can capture the larger deep-sky objects. Even a kit lens can be used for astrophotography.
Keep in mind that as the focal length of the lens increases, so will the demand of tracking accuracy and precise polar alignment. Once you have had success using a camera lens for astrophotography, you can swap it out with a telescope for some deep-sky imaging.
No matter what the focal length of your camera lens or telescope is, your focus must be spot-on for a sharp image. So it is important to not rush this step and take your time to focus your camera lens or telescope accurately.
The process will involve utilising the brightest stars (ex. Actaurus, Altair, Sirius, Vega) to focus your telescope or camera lens. The steps involved will be slightly different for focusing your camera lens than for your telescope, mainly ensuring you maintain focus for your camera lens as you move to your target.
More detailed instructions for focusing your camera lens and telescope can be found here.
Our mission is to simplify the hobby of astrophotography by providing valuable and experience-based content – the majority of which is free for you to consume.
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Stay tuned for new ways to support us, including print sales, merch, and our online beginner course.