Skip to Content

astrophotography lens

Using a Sigma 24mm F/1.4 for Astrophotography

|Camera Lenses|4 Comments

The Sigma 24mm F/1.4 lens is an interesting choice for astrophotography, particularly wide-angle Milky Way photography. With an f-ratio of F/1.4, this Sigma art series lens can pull in a lot of light under a dark night sky.

Over the years I have used a number of great camera lenses for astrophotography from the Rokinon 135mm F/2, to the Canon EF 300mm F/4L. The Sigma 24mm F/1.4 is perhaps the most impressive lens for astrophotography overall, rarely due to its incredibly fast aperture. 

I’ve used the lens on my Canon DSLR and Mirrorless cameras, and have found it to be one of the most useful lenses I own. The reviews on B&H Photo indicate that Nikon and Sony camera owners have had a positive experience with this lens as well.

The lens isn’t perfect, but it is an exceptional value and has impressive qualities that amateur astrophotographers can appreciate. The lack of image stabilization will likely be a deciding factor for those looking to use this lens for video work, but I have found it to be very useful when filming in low-light situations despite this feature. 

In this article, I will share my results using the Sigma 24mm F/1.4 Art lens for astrophotography. The photo shown below was captured using the Sigma 24mm F/1.4 lens and my Canon EOS Ra mirrorless camera.

The Milky Way

The Milky Way under a Dark Sky. Canon EOS Ra + Sigma 24mm F/1.4.

To create the image above, I capture multiple 90-second exposures on a portable star tracker (Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer). My wife and I rented an Airbnb at a dark sky location (Bortle Scale Class 3), to enjoy an unspoiled night sky. 

24mm is an ideal focal length for astrophotography applications, particularly nightscape photography. When paired with a full-frame astrophotography camera, the results are simply stunning. 

For the image above, my exposures were shot at ISO 3200 at F/2.8. Take a look at the example image below to see the difference between a single frame, and the final stacked image.

single exposure vs. stacked image

I have used the Sigma 24mm F/1.4 Art Lens on my full-frame Canon cameras for astrophotography. I have a Canon EOS 6D Mark II (stock), and a Canon EOS Ra (astrophotography) camera. 

The stock 6D II is used mainly for videography with the Sigma lens, while the EOS Ra is used for long-exposure night sky imaging exclusively. 

Sigma 24mm F/1.4 Art Lens

The Sigma 24mm f/1.4 Art lens is a professional-grade wide-angle lens part of the overall Art-series by Sigma, which are great budget-friendly alternatives to similar, and more expensive Canon, Nikon, and Sony lens options.

The lens I use includes the Canon EF-mount, which I can also use on my RF-mount Canon EOS Ra using a Canon EF – EOS R adapter

The 24mm lens is the second widest prime lens in the Sigma Art series, ideal for low-light photography. An aperture of f/1.4 is a very attractive spec for amateur astrophotographers that capture images and videos at night. This is lens is also suitable for many other types of photo/video work, such as weddings, landscape photography, and event photography.

One of the big selling features for me was the 77mm lens diameter, which allows me to utilize my existing collection of UV and ND filters. 

Sigma 24mm F/1.4 lens

The Sigma 24mm F/1.4 Art lens attached to my Canon EOS Ra Mirrorless body (using an adapter).

The Sigma 24mm F/1.4 offers impressive sharpness characteristics and offers an optical formula comprising 15 total elements in 11 groups, four of which are low dispersion, three that are low-dispersion (FLD), and two that are aspherical. The premium glass elements bring aberrations and distortion to a minimum, which is a common issue with many wide-angle lenses.

The focus ring, located on the front of the lens barrel, is very smooth and easy to rotate which is important for manual focusing. The lens focuses fast and is equipped with a high-quality hyper-sonic motor, found on other Sigma lenses, providing fast and quiet (i.e. barely audible) autofocus.

Like some of the other Sigma Art-series lenses, the 24mm f/1.4 Art, unfortunately, does not have a rubber gasket on the mount, meaning there is the risk of dust, moisture, and other debris to get between the lens and the camera mount. It is important to be mindful of this while using the lens to ensure the area is clean at all times.

While I did not experience any issues with auto-focus, others have indicated that they had auto-focus issues when shooting at wider apertures, which was solved by using a Sigma dock and some auto-focus adjustments.

Overall, the lens had low distortions, normal vignetting, fast/reliable auto-focus, pro-level build quality, and construction and is great in low-light situations. It is also considerably more affordable than other 24mm f/1.4 wide-angle lenses.

lens construction

The lens construction diagram of the Sigma 24mm F/1.4 Art lens. 

Sigma 24mm F/1.4 Art Complete Specs:

Focal Length: 24mm
Maximum Aperture: f/1.4
Minimum Aperture: f/16
Lens Mount: Canon EF
Format Compatibility: Full-Frame
Angle of View: 84.1°
Minimum Focus Distance: 9.84″ / 25 cm
Maximum Magnification: 0.19x
Optical Design: 15 Elements in 11 Groups
Diaphragm Blades: 9, Rounded
Focus Type: Autofocus
Image Stabilization: None
Filter Size: 77 mm (Front)
Dimensions: (ø x L) 3.35 x 3.55″ / 85 x 90.2 mm
Weight: 1.46 lb / 665 g

creative night sky photography

A creative shot with out-of-focus stars using the Sigma 24mm F/1.4 Art Lens. 13-seconds, ISO 400, F/1.4.

Uses in Astrophotography

Although I find the autofocus system on the Sigma 24mm F/1.4 to work exceptionally well in low-light video situations on my Canon EOS 6D Mark II, this feature is not used in my long-exposure imaging projects. That is because you must manually focus the lens on a bright star before taking the picture. Autofocus just won’t work pointed up at a dark night sky.

To focus the lens, I simply use the 10X live view mode on the camera’s display screen and find the brightest star in the field of view. It is best to use the maximum aperture (F/1.4) and a generous ISO setting (ISO 3200 or above) when focusing the lens on a star. Once you have it dialed in, you can stop the lens back down to F/2.8 or slower for a sharper image. 

Compared to other lenses I have used for Milky Way Photography, such as the Rokinon 14mm F/2.8, the Sigma 24mm F/1.4 is noticeably sharper at the edges of the frame. This is not surprising, as the Sigma is a higher-quality lens overall and not “ultra-wide-field” like the fully manual Rokinon. 

The following image was captured using the Sigma 24mm F/1.4 Art lens attached to my Canon EOS Ra and a Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer tracking mount. The image on the left is a single frame, while the one on the right is a processed stack of images to enhance color and clarity.

To learn how I process my astrophotography images, consider downloading my premium image processing guide

image processing

The Milky Way. Single Exposure vs. Processed Stack.

Clearly, the focal length of this lens lends itself well to capturing large portions of the night sky at once. With a crop-sensor camera, expect the field to be significantly reduced. To fully utilize the benefits of this lens, stick to full-frame camera. 

I enjoy the framing a 24mm focal length provides, but if you’re looking for something even wider, consider the Sigma 14mm F/1.8 Art Lens. The 14mm versions enters “ultra-wide” territory and would be a great fit for capturing the Milky Way, timelapses, meteor showers, and star-trail images.

There are a few secrets I would like to share about using the Sigma 24mm F/1.4 lens for astrophotography. These tips include techniques to apply in the field while shooting, as well as post-processing steps to take.

The first one is not such a big secret if you’re accustomed to processing astrophotography images in Adobe Photoshop.

Lens Profile Correction

I used the lens profile correction feature found inside of Adobe Camera Raw before stacking the images manually in Photoshop. The Sigma 24mm F/1.4 lens was recognized to have an associated profile in Adobe Camera Raw, as is the case for every lens I’ve ever used for astrophotography.

The main benefit of this technique is that it helps correct the curvature of the image that was evident in the RAW image files out of the camera. When comparing the image before and after the profile correction, I noticed that it flattens the field quite substantially.

lens profile correction

 I recommend applying the lens correction profile to all sub-exposure images before stacking, as opposed to a global application of the stacked/calibrated final. You can easily copy and paste your develop settings in Adobe Camera Raw and “paste” them to all of the images in the folder.

 This technique also helps to reduce any chromatic aberration of the stars in the image, which is a huge bonus.

Correcting color fringing in the image processing workflow is a standard procedure, but it certainly helps to apply a specific lens profile to the data at the onset.

Focusing the Lens

The Sigma 24mm F/1.4 has an impressive autofocus system, even when using the lens at its maximum aperture of F/1.4. This, of course, is in the daytime. For all astrophotography purposes (including video work), I use manual focus on this lens.

For daytime (and even dusk) filming on my Canon EOS 6D Mk II, the continuous autofocus capabilities of this lens are a lifesaver. I can simply tap the flip-out LCD screen to refocus on my face or any equipment I happen to be talking about.

However, at night, all of this goes out the window and the lens will not focus on stars in the night sky. For photography purposes, I simply use the manual focus ring to achieve a tight focus on the stars in the night sky.

For most lenses, it is best to “stop down” the lens for a sharper image. You will lose light-gathering power, of course, but your stars will likely look better at a slower f-ratio. On the Sigma 24mm F/1.4 Art lens, I find F/2.8 to be a good balance between aperture and image quality. 

Advice When Stacking Images

Depending on the way your individual sub-exposures were captured, you may notice some rotation in your final stacked image. This can be very difficult to overcome, but I believe that applying the lens profile to your sub-exposures before stacking will help. 

For nightscape astrophotography, I like to use Sequator to stack my images. This is a simple, free software that allows you to improve the signal-to-noise ratio of your final image by integrating several exposures together. 

This program allows you to select the areas of your image you would like the stack (such as the stars), and the areas you wish to leave alone (the landscape). It’s not perfect, but with some trial and error, you may find it to be a useful tool for your nightscape photos. 

I prefer to keep the default setting applied for the most part. I do not utilize the auto-brightness, high dynamic range, reduce light pollution, or enhance star light options, but you may want to try those settings out on your image.

Sequator Image Stacking

Stacking images in Sequator.

There are a few challenges that may arise when attempting to stack your individual light frames in Sequator (or DeepSkyStacker for that matter). The issues are not exclusive to camera lens astrophotography, but you will need to keep them in mind when taking photos with the Sigma 24mm F/1.4 Art Lens. 

Some tips for anyone looking to use the Sigma 24mm F/1.4 DG HSM Art lens for astrophotography are:

  • Capture long-exposure images (30-seconds +) on a star tracker mount
  • Capture a series of exposures to stack using software such as Sequator or DeepSkyStacker
  • Stop the lens down to F/2 or slower for sharper stars, especially near the edges of the frame
  • Use a bright star to manually focus the lens before capturing your subject
  • Capture your stationary foreground details in a separate exposure and blend with your stacked/tracked images

Milky Way astrophotography

The Milky Way. 10 x 30-seconds using the Sigma 24mm F/1.4 and Canon EOS Ra. 

The Bottom Line

The Sigma 24mm F/1.4 Art lens was a welcome addition to my ever-growing line-up of lenses for astrophotography. It is my fastest lens I own, at a convenient focal length for most projects. 

A “nifty-fifty” (50mm, F/1.8) lens is comparable, but I find a 50mm to be a bit too long when you want to capture a large area of the night sky in a single shot. However, an entry 50mm lens will get you the light-gathering power at a much more affordable price. 

The Sigma Art Series of lenses offer impressive quality and are a great value, and the astrophotography community seems to agree on this. 

In my experiences with the Sigma 24mm F/1.4, the images are impressively sharp and flat when paired with my full-frame Canon DSLR and Mirrorless cameras. I usually stop the lens down to F/2.8, but getting creative at F/1.4 can be useful for certain projects as well. 

For video work, this lens is quiet and focuses quickly (with adequate lighting). I have used this lens for the majority of my YouTube videos in 2020. If you notice scenes that include stars and constellations in the night sky, the Sigma 24mm F/1.4 was used. 

Sigma lens bokeh

The beautiful lens bokeh of the Sigma 24mm F/1.4 wide open. 

The Sigma Art Series Lens Line-up

The Art Series lenses are available for Canon, Nikon, and Sony camera bodies. The “DG” in the name stands for “digital full-frame and APS-C”, and the “HSM” stands for “hyper-sonic motor”. 

Here are the lenses I believe most astrophotographers and nightscape photographers will be interested in:

  • 14mm F/1.8 DG HSM
  • 20mm F/1.4 DG HSM
  • 24mm F/1.4 DG HSM
  • 28mm F/1.4 DG HSM
  • 30mm F/1.4 DC HSM
  • 35mm F/1.4 DG HSM
  • 35mm F/1.2 DG DN
  • 40mm F/1.4 DG HSM
  • 50mm F/1.4 DG HSM

Sigma offers Art series lenses beyond 50mm (including an enticing 50-100mm zoom lens). I am looking into the 14mm F/1.8 as an alternative ultra-wide-angle lens. The 35mm F/1.2 Art lens is the fastest lens of the bunch but is currently only available for Sony camera bodies. 

Helpful Resources:

Related Tags

The Best Lens for Astrophotography (That You Probably Already Own)

|Camera|10 Comments

In my opinion, the best astrophotography lens is one that can capture a variety of images of the night sky in a reliable and consistent way. Not all camera lenses are created equal, and imaging a night sky full of pinpoint stars has a way of bringing out the worst (or best) of your lenses capabilities.

In the following post, I’ll share my experiences using 2 astonishingly affordable camera lenses for astrophotography. I shoot with both full-frame and APS-C sized sensor Canon DSLR’s, so the lenses are both made by Canon. The Canon EF 50mm F/1.8 STM, and the Rokinon 14mm F/2.8 wide-angle lens.

It’s not possible for me to recommend a single “best lens for astrophotography”, as that title will vary depending on who you ask. Consider this post to offer some real-world advice from someone who’s pointed several cameras and lenses towards the night sky over the past 8 years.

The Best Lens for Astrophotography (You May Already Own)

camera lens for astrophotography

The Canon EF 50mm F/1.8 Camera Lens and DSLR on a Tracking Mount

The truth is, when I look at similar reviews for astrophotography lenses, they tend to focus solely on Milky Way photography, and nightscapes. Unlike most reviewers, my long history in deep-sky astrophotography using a DSLR through a telescope has given me a unique perspective on this subject.

On a recent astrophotography session in the backyard, I discovered how enjoyable it can be to squeeze in a brief mid-week session using my camera lens in place of the telescope.

For this imaging run, I used the refreshingly simple and affordable Canon EF 50mm F/1.8 lens. The lens was attached to my Canon Rebel T3i DSLR, which rode atop an iOptron SkyTracker camera mount.

(Those of you that have been following my blog for some time know how much I love my DSLR astrophotography.)

The difference this time around is that I’m able to get up and running in about 10 minutes.  The lack of computer control and autoguiding saves a lot of time and effort – meaning I’m collecting data sooner.

Don’t believe me? Have a look at a recent shoot that took place on a less than perfect night.

A Budget Astrophotography Lens (Nifty Fifty)

The lens used in this video is often referred to as the “nifty fifty”. “Every photographer should own a 50mm f/1.8 lens as your first upgrade from the kit lens that came with your camera.”Improvephotography.com

In the video above, I set out to capture the Orion Constellation using a Lens in place of a telescope.  This is my “quick and dirty” imaging setup.

Using a Camera Lens instead of a Telescope

On nights when imaging time is limited, a great option is to set up a highly mobile setup that you can get up and running quickly. You do not need a telescope to enjoy astrophotography and capture many stunning deep sky objects in the night sky.

Related Post: 7 Astrophotography Tips and Camera Settings You Can Try Tonight.

Sure it would be great to capture light frames on a deep sky project using my primary imaging telescope, but that’s not always a practical choice in the middle of February. Setting up a DSLR camera and lens on a portable tracking mount is quick and painless – and I still get my astrophotography fix.

Setting up my camera mount

A small sky-tracker camera mount can be set up and polar aligned within minutes

The process of setting up my complete deep-sky telescope rig for a night of astrophotography takes time.

Even with a sound blueprint for setting up my non-permanent setup, the process can take upwards of an hour. This isn’t a problem on a warm Saturday in June, but a Monday night in February is an entirely different experience.

Another factor that went into consideration was the weather conditions for that particular night. The clear sky chart was less than ideal, with the transparency meter looking a little pale.

Rather than setting myself up for a potentially wasted night due to weather, I took a chance on some wide-field shots using my “spur of the moment” rig. If the clouds did end up rolling in, I could quickly pack everything back up into the garage in minutes.

A Lightweight, Portable Solution

wide-angle astrophotography setup

My Canon EOS Rebel T3i sitting atop the SkyTracker Pro Camera Mount

The iOptron SkyTracker Pro is a portable astrophotography mount that is perfect for taking wide-angle nightscape with a DSLR camera and lens. If you’re just getting into the hobby and interested in long exposure shots of the Milky Way – a star tracker mount like this what you want.

My target on this particular night was the Orion Constellation, including Barnard’s Loop. Using the Canon 50m lens with my T3i results in a focal length of 80mm (50mm x 1.6 crop factor), which happens to be a perfect fit when it comes to capturing the stars that make up Orion the hunter.

Canon astrophotography lens

The Canon EF 50mm F/1.8 Lens

What’s the Best Lens for Astrophotography on a budget?

You may remember my announcement on Facebook about investing in a new Rokinon 14mm F/2.8 lens. This “budget” category lens was purchased with the idea of wide-angle nightscapes in mind.

There are many great lenses for astrophotography available, but these are two that I personally own and enjoy. The models mentioned below are both prime lenses with a fixed focal length. Although they are both affordable choices for astrophotography, their uses will vary.

Jerry Lodriguss has put together a helpful list of both Canon, Nikon, Sigma and Rokinon Lenses for Astrophotography on his website.

best budget astrophotography lens

Left: Rokinon 14mm F/2.8  |   Right: Canon 50mm F/1.8

The lenses listed below are both built for a Canon DSLR body because that’s what I currently shoot with.  Nikon has comparable lenses (Nikkor) in this category, with similar models of the lenses mentioned below.

The Rokinon 14mm F/2.8

If you were to ask me for advice on “the best budget lens for astrophotography”, I’d lean toward the Rokinon 14mm Ultra Wide Lens if you plan on shooting wide-angle astro-landscapes.  Over the summer of 2018, I was able to capture some incredible images of the night sky with this lens.

Rokinon 14mm F/2.8 lens for Canon

The Rokinon 14mm F/2.8 Lens attached to my Canon DSLR

At 14mm, the Rokinon is a much better choice than the Canon 50mm if you plan to capture large areas of the night sky, including the Milky Way. With a full frame camera, the ultra-wide 14mm FOV can be fully appreciated.

Pros:

  • Ultra Wide-Angle (Especially using a full-frame DSLR)
  • Affordable
  • Fast Optics (F/2.8)

Cons:

  • Manual aperture adjustment
  • The manual focus ring is slow
  • Big and bulky objective lens

As the season changes, I’ll spend much more time with this astrophotography lens.  I am curious to see how much sky I can collect in some stacked long exposures.

Update: Summer 2018

I used the SkyTracker Pro mount and the Rokinon 14mm F/2.8 Lens to photograph the Milky Way under the dark skies of Cherry Springs State Park in June 2018. This portable astrophotography setup is absolutely perfect for wide-angle shots of the Milky Way.

The Milky Way

The Milky Way using the Rokinon 14mm F/2.8 Lens

If you’re want to go a step further and use a small telescope – I’ve had success using the beefier SkyGuider Pro. Wide-field nightscapes are a lot of fun – and can be just as rewarding as a deep sky image. The SkyTracker taps out after the weight of a DSLR camera and modest size lens.

The Canon EF 50mm F/1.8

This lens is about $150 brand new, is virtually weightless, and is useful focal length for wide field imaging on certain targets.  I purchased the Canon EF 50mm F/1.8 lens years ago, as it added a much need portrait lens to my DSLR kit at the time.

Canon EF 50mm F/1.8

With the aperture wide open at F/1.8, you can pull in a lot of light in a short period of time, but the stars are a little rough at the edges of the frame. If you stop down to F/2.8 or F/3.2 things improve dramatically.

Pros:

  • Extremely Affordable
  • Fast Optics (F/1.8)
  • Lightweight

Cons:

  • No Image Stabilization
  • Impractical Focal Length
  • Stars at F/1.8 aren’t great

examples using a 50mm lens

The images above were taken by Kurt Zeppetello and Victor Toth using the Canon 50mm F/1.8 lens on a tracking mount.

Camera Lens Focal Length Max Aperture Best F-Ratio to Use Best For Price
Rokinon 14mm F/2.8 14mm F/2.8 F/3.2 Wide Deep-Sky Check Amazon
Canon EF 50mm F/1.8 50mm F/1.8 F/3.2 The Milky Way Check Amazon

Using a Clip-in DSLR filter with a camera lens

To make life easier, I opted to use an h-alpha filter in the T3i to completely ignore the light pollution from home. The Astronomik 12nm Ha filter clips into my camera – and isolates the hydrogen gases found within the hunter.

I don’t recommend using a thread filter that screws on to the objective of your camera lens. It’s best to use a clip filter that clicks into the body of the DSLR underneath the lens, like the one shown below.

The clip-in style filters allow you to attach any EF mount-style lenses to your Canon camera. I recommend double checking to see if your lens is compatible with a particular clip filter before purchasing.

Clip-in DSLR filter

The Astronomik 12nm Ha Clip-In Filter used for my Narrowband image of Orion

The Orion Constellation at 50mm (in narrowband ha)

The following image is of a large portion of the night sky including the stars and nebulae surrounding Orion. I use the hydrogen-alpha clip filter in my camera on nights when the Moon is out, or I simply want to capture some dramatic details in a particular nebula.

The resulting narrowband image is, of course, black and white – with the red channel isolated in photoshop for processing. For more details on processing images in ha from a DSLR, have a look at my narrowband Photoshop tutorial.

Barnard's Loop in Orion

Barnard’s Loop in Orion | 26 x 3-minutes @ ISO 800

Overall, I am quite pleased with the way this turned out. The total exposure time was short, and the sky conditions were lousy. The focal length of the Canon EF 50mm lens was spot on for a constellation of this size.

The shots were 3 minutes each, at ISO 800.  I stopped the aperture down to F/3.2 to sharpen things up, not to mention not blow out my 3-minute subs. As you can see, the stars are still rather sharp at the very edge of the field.

stars at the edge of field

A sound polar alignment on the little iOptron SkyTracker was all I needed for sharp, pinpoint stars for each 180-second sub.  Can your telescope mount go 3 minutes unguided with sharp stars?

To polar align, I simply refer to my Polar Finder phone app and make the necessary adjustments to the mount.

At this focal length, autoguiding is not necessary and the field of view is quite wide and forgiving. With that being said, I am so impressed with the smooth and accurate tracking on the SkyTracker. A camera mount like this opens up new opportunities for night photography when using a camera lens for astrophotography.

Camera Automation and Focus

I  automate my imaging sessions on the SkyTracker mount using a remote shutter release cable that connects directly to the DSLR. With this device, I can set everything from the number of exposures to the individual exposure length.

A typical astrophotography imaging session will include 30 images of 90-seconds or more, with a 5-second delay between shots. It’s often said that using a delay can help let your camera sensor cool down a bit between shots. This will help reduce noise.

remote shutter release cable

My Polaroid  Remote Shutter Release Cable

The cheap Polaroid version I bought on Amazon has been surprisingly reliable. Using the remote, I let the camera do it’s thing until it’s time to tear down and go to bed.

The photo below showcases the constellation Cygnus and the Milky Way using my Canon T3i DSLR with the Rokinon 14mm F/2.8 Ultra wide angle lens. It’s a stacked shot of 23 x 2-minute exposures.

The Summer Triangle

The Summer Triangle and the Milky Way (Rokinon 14mm F/2.8)

The Best Lens for Canon DSLR’s

I would like to recommend the Canon EF 50mm F/1.8 STM and the Rokinon 14mm F/2.8 Ultra Wide Angle lenses for Canon cameras. These 2 lenses are tremendous choices for astrophotography because they are capable of letting in a lot of starlight in a single exposure.

The 50mm is a useful focal length for framing up a particular constellation like Orion, above. While the Rokinon 14mm lens is perfect for shooting the Milky Way. Both lenses can produce sharp results and impressive images when the correct settings and techniques are used.

The Canon EF 24-105mm F/4 lens has also been useful for certain projects. It’s a zoom lens, but the star quality is commendable at both 24mm and 105mm. When coupled with a crop-sensor DSLR, the full magnification of 105mm brings a new perspective to popular targets such as the Horsehead and Flame nebula in Orion.

iOptron SkyTracker Pro Camera Mount

Deep sky objects in Orion at 105mm (Canon EF 24-105mm F/4L lens)

For me – finding ways to sustain this hobby long term is important. This rather brief astrophotography session provided me with enough data to produce an impressive portrait of Barnard’s Loop, and the Orion constellation in hydrogen alpha.

The simplicity of mounting the camera on a small tracking mount and walking away really appeals to me.  On frigid February night, it’s a refreshing experience that doesn’t involve a lengthy star alignment routine or lugging 40 pounds of gear around.

Shooting deep sky through a telescope will always be my bread and butter, but shooting with a cheap astrophotography lens on a small star tracker sure is a lot of fun too.

Related Posts:

Astrophotography Cameras: The Best Choice for a Beginner

Light Pollution Filters for Astrophotography

Deep Sky Astrophotography with a 300mm Camera Lens

Related Tags